Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Holiday in the Drakensberg Mountains

After hiking, hitchhiking and and walking on the main Sani Pass road we finally made it to the top.  The Sani Pass road is a spectacular road that is known as the gateway to the roof of Africa. Once, the Sani Pass was a rough mule trail descending the Eastern Highlands of old Basutoland into Natal. Tough drovers brought wool and mohair down the Pass on donkeys and mules to be exchanged for blankets … clothing … maize meal … the essentials for life in a remote, impoverished country. The road is still very rough and visitors must have a 4X4 to maneuver the winding and steep pass. We started our trek by taking a quick taxi to the beginning of the road. Walked with our packs for about an hour, until a sympathetic Dept of Transportation employee picked us up and carried us to the South African border. After showing our passports, we once again ascended on foot for about 2 1/2 hours. My pack was not feeling right, and being passed by one 4x4 guide vehecle after another, I was really in low spirits. We finally caught a lift with another road worker. The last stretch up the pass was absolutely spectacular. We were rewarded with naturally cold beer at the top.
Day One of our hiking expedition. We missed the sleeping caves we booked through the Ranger's Office and ended up climbing a very steep mountain to the top of the escarpment. After walking an additional hour we finally found a stream for our campsite. Our only neighbor was a Lesoto shepherd. After exhanging hand signals to ask if he didn't mind us spending the night by "his" river, we finally set up camp in freezing temperatures. Our shepherd called over the mountain and another shepherd majically appeared at our side. As the "English speaker" of the team we managed enough conversation to share a bit of our dinner and show them the inside of our tent. They were shocked we were going to both sleep in such a flimsy home. (I'm assuming his charades indicated high wind and possible rain)
Our neighbor the shepherd, watching over his flock as we departed early the next morning.
Next on our adventure was hiking to the highest point south of Kilamanjaro. We hired a guide, who in turn hired a guide, to show us the way. Typically, hikers complete this 30K in 2 to 3 days. Since we planned on one day, hiring a guide offered a bit of reasurrance to the woman of the team. It's almost as if Chuck is possessed when he hikes. I don't think there's a faster hiker around. The guides were begging for breaks on the way home. "Sipho, we must stop for some water and a cigarette."
Success! And it was only 11am. No rest for the weary.
We noticed this shepherd in the far distance. I actually had to use the zoom on my camera to make sure it was a person. What seemed like moments later, he was on the top, standing 20 feet away. We took multiple photos of him after our guide said he really liked looking at himself in the digital camera. 

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